Beautiful Frozen Helsinki

Beautiful Frozen HelsinkiFrozen Helsinki

I returned to the city I’d ached for after leaving a year ago. A city and country that had stayed in my thoughts for much of the last 12 months.

When I’d been in Helsinki in December 2014 I’d been too early to experience this city in the full grip of winter: it had been mild and sunny.

I’d done a weather report the day before I flew this January and it gave a promisingly wintry -8ºc for the following day however when my flight landed into Helsinki airport that evening the temperature had dropped to a chilly -22ºc.

It was a bracing walk across the tarmac to the waiting bus to transport the passengers the short distance to the terminal: I have never experienced such a low temperature before!

There is a new train that links the airport with the city making this part of the journey a breeze. Arriving into Helsinki station I crunched on the hardened snow that was crusted to the platform, walked through the station and found myself in the familiar surroundings of the city centre.

Finland From The Air

The following morning I layered up and set off to explore a sparkling white Helsinki.

The harbour steamed as the January sun rose to a clear, cloudless day. The mist danced over the icy sea and the trees and spired roofs of Valkosaari – a small island in the bay – peeked ethereally above the vapour.

It looked so beautiful!

When you’ve dreamt of returning to a place that you fell head over heels in love with there is always that nagging feeling that it won’t live up to your exalted expectations.

When I glimpsed that dancing mist from the side streets of Katajanokka – the gorgeous area of the city where I was staying – I knew it was not going to let me down.

Exposing my fingers to use my camera was colder than I could possibly imagine but the scene in front of me when I reached the Kauppatori was just too irresistible.

It was an extraordinary sight: the sun flared with rainbow-hued sun dogs – something I’ve rarely seen – and a hulking ferry appeared dreamlike through the mist.

Momentarily I debated taking the ferry to Suomenlinna – the island sea fortress in the bay – as the ferry was about to depart: how magical it would be to sail through the mist!

I felt underdressed for a day on the island though, the temperature was well below -20ºc and my outfit was untested.

The market square – Kauppatori– was covered with a thin layer of compacted snow which glittered in the sunshine. A few market stalls huddled at one end selling souvenirs, t-shirts and Lapland food: the vendors looked a lot more wrapped up than I was.

I walked up to Senate Square (Senaatintori) where Helsinki Cathedral (Helsingin Tuomiokirkko)  gleamed white against the brilliant blue sky. The square was empty bar the statue of Alexander II, when I’d been here in the previous winter a Christmas market had filled the space.

Carrying on north I walked to the handsome Hakaniemi Market Hall, a beautiful red brick building with grand arched doorways.

The market hall was a warm refuge for my now frozen toes. The market stalls were tightly packed and abundant with produce: colourful veg, big cuts of meat and fresh fish.

A narrow escalator took me up to the upper floor where there were stalls of fabrics – including Marimekko –, craft supplies and undies. At the heart of the upper floor there is a coffee shop and locals were taking their mid morning coffee and pulla.

It was too cold to be outside all day so I spent the afternoon in Kiasma, Helsinki’s contemporary art museum. When I emerged hours later – after a thorough culture fix – it was dark.

The following day was Epiphany and many places were closed. The mist was still dancing on the harbour and the temperature was even colder than the previous day.

I had nowhere particular to go so I decided to let my feet choose a route.

This led me to Kaivopuisto. This lovely shoreside park was blanketed in snow and kids were sledging down the slope from the little observatory.

The mist danced here too; the sea lapped gently over ice-shrouded rocks at the shore while the marina was frozen and snow-flecked.

I could have explored and photographed to my heart’s content but my feet and cheeks had other ideas: the cold was nagging them to get moving.

Frozen Helsinki

I wandered back towards the city centre as I needed to buy a couple of things. I could feel my eyelashes freezing up, my hair too was a crispy mess of ice where it was free of my hat!

Eventually I ducked into a shop – Findlaysons, what gorgeous fabric they have! – and my ice-crusted lashes quickly melted in the heat of the store taking my mascara with it, streaking it blackly down my thawing cheeks! No mascara from now on!

With none of the museums open I pottered around some of the shops then took an afternoon nap to thoroughly thaw out before heading back out to see the Lux Helsinki light show that evening. (More on Lux Helsinki in a different post.)

I left Helsinki the next afternoon, after another sunny stroll around Katajanokka and the Kauppatori area, heading north to Hämeenlinna with a Finnish friend. 

While the freezing temperatures took a little acclimatising to I wouldn’t have swapped these gorgeous few days for anything, not even a tropical beach somewhere!

Pin it for later:

Beautiful Frozen Helsinki

 

Try these posts:

Helsinki: The Thought Of Leaving Was Unbearable I lay my heart out to this beautiful city.

Colourful and Cool: Lux Helsinki  Lux Helsinki 2016 Light Art Festival.

Why I’m Learning Finnish Finally discovering a language I want to learn!

Korvapuustit Finnish cinnamon rolls! Amazing!

Beautiful Suomenlinna in Pictures a crisp December day on this island fortress.

A Gorgeous Helsinki Bay Walk get out of the city without leaving the city!

By Rachel A Davis   Follow on Bloglovin

 

What’s the coldest you’ve experienced? Where was it and was it beautiful?

20 Responses

  1. Debbie says:

    Next trip you should go further north to Lapland, the winter scenes are even more breathtaking there. As much as I love Helsinki, Lapland has captured my heart both in winter and Ruska. With the changing colors of the trees reflecting on the lakes, it is a photographer’s dream. You have to experience it to believe how beautiful it is, each scene is more spectacular than the last. Curious what first brought you to Finland and when you started studying Finnish. Thanks for sharing your adventures!

    • Rachel Davis says:

      Hi Debbie! Just making friends with a Finn on a long trip through Mongolia and chatting about Finland, this is what drew me there! I started properly learning Finnish after the first trip there.
      I am going to be experiencing winter in Swedish Lapland, as I shall be working there all winter. I’d love to see Finnish Lapland in winter, as I loved travelling around it this summer but I don’t think I’ll get the time too.
      Thanks for commenting!

  2. Veera Bianca says:

    WOW you make Helsinki look so incredibly beautiful <3
    Veera Bianca recently posted…EATING HEALTHY ON THE ISLAND OF MALTAMy Profile

  3. Wow! Helsinki in winter looks amazing as I don’t mnd the cold lol!
    I went to Helsnki last spring. In fact, I went to the Baltic Regions and it was shockingly snowing in Lithuania and Latvia but the weather was quite sunny in Helsinki! I even wore my T-shirt and sunglasses lol!
    ‘Love this post. 🙂
    Victoria@ The British Berliner recently posted…How to be an embodiment of urban, provocative cool: Berlin Fashion Week – Autumn/Winter 2016 – PART I!My Profile

  4. Lisa says:

    sounds amazing but way too cold for me to cope with 🙂 x

  5. Meghan says:

    I love all your photos, Rachel, but I think these are some of the most amazing I’ve seen. I’m blown away by how you captured the cold and the mist and fog. I’m so happy you’re enjoying your return to Helsinki, and thank you for sharing it with us!
    Meghan recently posted…Hole-in-the-Rock Road, Part 1: Devil’s Garden and Cedar Wash ArchMy Profile

    • Rachel Davis says:

      Thank you so much Meghan! It’s a pleasure to share it all, I can’t keep all this beauty to myself! 😉 I just don’t ever want to leave now! Really putting off booking that fflight home!

  6. mimi says:

    Wow Rachel. I doubt I’ve ever been in such cold weather as you in Helsinki! Love that selfie!
    mimi recently posted…SagMy Profile

  7. Miriam says:

    I love the snow too as everything just looks so differently however seeing your ice encrusted eye lashes is making me shiver, even though I’m right beside the stove! Thanks for braving the frostbite and taking off your gloves to take those gorgeous photos 🙂
    Miriam recently posted…Vermont – A journey to rememberMy Profile

    • Rachel Davis says:

      Thank you Miriam! I’m so in love with the snow and the prettiness it gives, it is well worth the frozen lashes! I think I’m really going to miss this weather when I finally leave, I never thought I’d say that either!

  8. I just cannot comprehend how cold that is – ice crusted lashes?! So do you take the gloves off to photograph? Whichever way you’ve done it, these views are utterly magical, it must have been a dream come true to see a place you’ve loved before looking so spectacular 🙂
    Shikha (whywasteannualleave) recently posted…Highlights from Northumberland and Durham, North East EnglandMy Profile

    • Rachel Davis says:

      I do have to take my mitten tops off to use my camera or phone (they are those fingerless gloves with a fold-over mitten top), in the very very frozen temps I can only manage this for about 20 secs before it gets too painful! It’s well worth it though, the pictures are just so pretty to gain!

  9. kate says:

    Some of your photos have taken on a Turner-esque like quality – beautiful. Your eyelashes made me smile – I don’t ‘do well’ in the cold and to see your icy face made me shudder (despite the beauty of it all) x
    kate recently posted…‘Stag’gering off or ‘Hare’ing around?My Profile

    • Rachel Davis says:

      Hi Kate! I have bad circulation and my toes freeze but I love the snow and ice so I brave it! Thank you so much for your lovely comment. I think nature will have to take credit for the Turner-esque quality but it was a pleasure to capture it 😉

  10. Oh my, you managed to capture the beauty very well! It’s been an amazing winter time here lately, you definitely timed it perfectly 🙂
    Jennifer – Swede in Helsinki recently posted…Isen på havet i solnedgången.My Profile

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